Lavender is an ascetic plant. It thrives on poor soil, scorching sun, and a complete lack of attention regarding watering. Most gardeners kill it with 'excessive love': rich soil, frequent watering, and wrapping it in garden fleece for winter. Let's explore how to make it flourish, not just survive.
1. The Main Mistake: The Wrong Variety
Garden centers often sell French Lavender (L. stoechas) — it's incredibly beautiful but dies at 14°F (-10°C). For gardens in temperate climates, ONLY English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is suitable. It can withstand temperatures down to -22°F (-30°C), provided it has 'dry feet'.
Look for 'Hidcote' or 'Munstead' varieties — they are the gold standard for hardiness and deep color.
2. Soil: Forget About Fertilizers
Lavender hates acidic soil and organic matter. Manure is poison to it. The ideal substrate is poor sandy soil mixed with crushed stone or gravel. The roots need air and perfect drainage.
How to Plant Lavender Correctly:
- Add 2 cups of dolomite lime or wood ash to the planting hole — lavender loves an alkaline environment.
- Place a drainage layer of at least 4 inches (10 cm) at the bottom.
- Never mulch lavender with bark or peat (they acidify the soil). Use small light-colored gravel or pebbles instead — they reflect light onto the lower branches, preventing rot.
The Golden Rule of Pruning: Never Cut Into Old Wood!
If you prune a lavender branch back to where the bark has become brown and hard ('old wood'), it will likely never produce new shoots again. You should only cut the green, soft part of the stem, leaving about 1 inch (2–3 cm) above the woody part. This is critical for rejuvenating the bush.
3. Pruning Scheme for a 'Ball' Shape
Many are afraid to prune lavender, and within 3 years, it turns into a leggy, sprawling bush with a dry center.
Two Mandatory Prunings per Year:
- Summer (after bloom): Cut back all flower stalks plus 1 inch of green growth. This stimulates a second bloom in September.
- Autumn (late September): Shape it into a tight dome. Shorten the current year's shoots so the bush doesn't split under the weight of snow. A tight 'ball' winters much better.
4. Wintering: The Enemy is Moisture, Not Frost
Do not cover lavender with agrofibre! It creates humidity underneath, causing the plant to rot before the real frost arrives. The only dangerous time is a snowless winter with icy winds.
The best winter protection for lavender is evergreen boughs. They trap snow while allowing air to circulate. Most importantly, remove them as soon as the snow starts to melt.
Remember three words for success: Sun, Stones, Shears. Provide spartan conditions, and lavender will become the centerpiece of your walkways and rock gardens.
